Think of Asheville, North Carolina, as Greenville’s bohemian mountain neighbor. Infused with an independent Appalachian spirit, Asheville lies just 63 miles north of Greenville. That free spirit is what fuels Friday evening drum circles in downtown’s Pritchard Park, alternative medicine practices, and an army of artists who seek out the city (population 93,776) as the best place to pursue their craft.
More than 200 of these creatives ply their trade in the River Arts District (or RAD, as the locals say), in renovated industrial warehouses that border the French Broad River in West Asheville. Spend an afternoon here, chatting with artisans working in media from clay to copper and grabbing a bite at White Duck (tacos), 12 Bones Smokehouse (barbecue), or a beer at Wedge Brewing Company. At dinnertime, check out Vivian, where Southern flavors meld with European flair, and Bull and Beggar for French-inspired fare.
That independent spirit bubbles over into the city’s food and beverage scene, which brags Katie Button, John Fleer, Jacob Sessoms, Meherwan Irani, and rising star Ashleigh Shanti among its celebrity chefs. Not to mention the fact that Asheville claims more breweries per capita than any other city in the U.S.
Spirits Up
Asheville’s most famous attraction, Biltmore is the 8,000-acre estate built for George and Edith Vanderbilt in 1895. A day is barely enough to tour the mansion, stroll the gardens, and indulge in a tasting at the on-site winery.
While you’re exploring downtown, with its outstanding collection of Art Deco architecture, note how the Blue Ridge Mountains wrap their arms around the city. This lofty location promises a wonderland of hiking trails and waterfalls. Some of the area’s best trails and scenic views lie along the Blue Ridge Parkway, as it weaves past Asheville on its way from Shenandoah National Park in Virginia to the Great Smoky Mountains.
Nature lover, history buff, art and architecture fan, or foodie: Whatever your pleasure, you can soak it all in here, intermingled with the edgy atmosphere that defines this mountain town.
See
SeeAsheville Art Museum
A 2019 expansion added 70 percent more space for the museum to display its collection of twentieth- and twenty-first-century American Art.
2 S. Pack Square, Asheville, NC. ashevilleart.org
Biltmore Estate
The largest private home in the U.S., George Vanderbilt’s 1895 chateau-style mansion reveals the luxe lifestyle of the Gilded Age.
One Lodge St., Asheville, NC. biltmore.com
French Broad Chocolate Factory
Chocoholics young and old will enjoy seeing how bean-to-bar chocolate is made, and sampling the irresistible results at the adjacent cafe.
821 Riverside Dr., Asheville, NC. frenchbroadchocolates.com
River Arts District
Old industrial buildings along the French Broad River now hold a wealth of artist’s galleries and studios, restaurants, and breweries.
Clingman Ave. at Lyman St., West Asheville, NC. riverartsdistrict.com
Thomas Wolfe Memorial State Historic Site
Tour the childhood home of writer Thomas Wolfe (1900–38), who immortalized the house in his autobiographical novel, Look Homeward, Angel.
52 N. Market St., Asheville, NC. wolfememorial.com
Eat
The Admiral
You’ll find some of the most creative cuisine in town inside this modest cinderblock building in West Asheville.
400 Haywood Rd., Asheville, NC. theadmiralasheville.com
Benne on Eagle
In the historic Asheville neighborhood known as The Block, Benne On Eagle dishes up delightful takes on Appalachian soul food.
35 Eagle St., in The Foundry Hotel, Asheville, NC. benneoneagle.com
Chai Pani
Meherwan Irani’s fabulous Indian street food earned him the James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurant in 2022.
22 Battery Park Ave., Asheville, NC. chaipaniasheville.com
Cúrate
James Beard Award-winning chef Katie Button is justly acclaimed for her superb interpretation of traditional Spanish tapas.
13 Biltmore Ave., Asheville, NC. curatetapasbar.com
Eldr
Wood-oven-fired seasonal Appalachian ingredients star on the plate at Eldr (the name is Old Norse for “fire”), set in a historic cottage in Grovewood Village, adjacent to the Omni Grove Park Inn.
111 Grovewood Rd., Asheville, NC. eldravl.com
OWL
At Old World Levain, the menu roams the globe through handmade breads and pastries such as Portuguese egg custard tarts and Pastelitos, Cuban-inspired turnovers filled with cream cheese and guava.
295 Haywood Rd. and 197 Charlotte St., Asheville, NC. owlbakery.com
Stay
Carolina Bed & Breakfast
Six lovely rooms plus a cottage make comfortable roosts in this 1901 Arts and Crafts-style home in the Montford Historic District.
177 Cumberland Ave., Asheville, NC. carolinabb.com
Inn at Biltmore
On the grounds of the Biltmore Estate, the inn reflects Gilded Age style against a backdrop of panoramic mountain views.
One Lodge St., Asheville, NC. biltmore.com/stay/the-inn
Kimpton Hotel Arras
Local artwork complements the mountain-modern decor at the Arras, which enjoys a prime downtown location on Pack Square.
7 Patton Ave., Asheville, NC. hotelarras.com
The Omni Grove Park Inn
Now owned by the Omni, this venerable resort hotel embraced by the Blue Ridge Mountains has been an Asheville mainstay since 1913.
290 Macon Ave., Asheville, NC. omnihotels.com/hotels/asheville-grove-park
The Restoration Asheville
Rising above Pritchard Park downtown, this new boutique hotel outfits its 60 sleek suites with hardwood floors, brick walls, and floor-to-ceiling windows.
68 Patton Ave., Asheville, NC. therestorationhotel.com
