The San Antonio area beckons with history, culture, and Tex-Mex cuisine
Do me a favor. Take your Texas stereotypes (the “Howdy cowboy,” honky tonk, everything’s bigger in Texas ones), and gently set them to the side. Except the one about everything being bigger in Texas. That one’s true. When it comes to travel musts, the Lone Star State doesn’t often hit top ten lists, perhaps because it is so vast. With 254 counties, three of the largest cities in the US, and a climate that transforms from pine woods to wetland, desert to hill country, it can be daunting to know where to begin.
Might I suggest the middle? A decade ago I found myself outside San Antonio watching a sunset burn across a never-ending expanse of scrub oak and rolling plateau. It was the widest, loneliest sky I’ve ever seen. That untamed beauty kept calling me back, and I’ve discovered that south central Texas boasts a vibrant and diverse culture that never fails to surprise.
San Antonio
Let’s start with a weekend in San Antonio. Founded by Spanish explorers in the early 1700s, the city has deep Hispanic roots. As home to the Alamo, where Tejanos and Texians joined forces to fight for independence from Mexico, it’s a pivotal Texas heritage site. This cultural melding and historical pride has produced a rich identity, reflected throughout the city’s intentional design, art scene, and culinary culture.
Explore downtown via the Riverwalk, a sunken pedestrian walkway that follows the San Antonio River through the city. Boat tours provide historical tidbits, but walking allows for the surprise of hidden delights (murals, fountains, artwork, chapels, gardens). The Riverwalk meanders from the revamped Pearl district in the north to the artsy King William district in the south. Pop up to street level when a specific site strikes your fancy—everything from the Alamo to Hemisphere Park.
Back to the Pearl District—stay at Hotel Emma. Once the largest brewery in Texas, Pearl’s Brewhouse enjoyed an innovative redesign, opening as a 146-room boutique hotel in 2015. From the complimentary margarita upon arrival to the bathrooms’ handmade Spanish tile, everything exudes purpose and elegance, which filters into the surrounding plaza, shops, and niche eateries that flank the hotel.
Speaking of food, you will need to try a breakfast taco. This is the staple food of San Antonians, and opinions vary on where and which type is the best. You cannot go wrong with a bean, cheese, and bacon taco from Fuego Tortilla Grill, but ask around. Tex-Mex (real Tex-Mex) and barbecue abound, but diverse and innovative eateries are constantly popping up (the Culinary Institute of American has a campus at the Pearl).
Opt for Peruvian fare at Leche de Tigre from James Beard semifinalist Emil Oliva or Michelin-starred dessert bar Nicosi. Whatever you do, you must visit HEB. There may be other grocery stores in central Texas, but I’ve never seen them. Like a benevolent grandmother, HEB provides everything you could possibly need with the utmost sweetness. You will pack your suitcase to the brim with handmade flour tortillas, and TSA will let you, because it’s HEB.
Prime time to visit is spring, when the weather is mild and wildflowers blanket highway medians and cattle fields alike. Catch them in bloom at Friedrich Wilderness Park or along the Texas Native Trail Area at the San Antonio Botanical Garden. Other outdoor delights include touring the area’s founding Catholic missions via bike on the San Antonio Mission Trail, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, or shopping and strolling around historic Market Square, spicy michelada in hand if your tastes allow.
For indoor entertainment, the museums truly shine. Downtown, the Briscoe is an open door to art of the American West, and the McNay is lovely inside and out, boasting a surprising collection of modern art, including works by Picasso and O’Keefe. With its fascinating natural history and dinosaur exhibits, the Witte is an excellent place to end your time, but if you can manage it, find some open road outside the city and catch a sunset before you go. It will keep calling you back.
Day Trips
A wander around these central Texas towns offer a wealth of cultural delights beyond the cowboy boot stereotype.
Austin, TX
A quick trip up I-35 from San Antonio, the Texas capitol bustles with ambition and entertainment. Home to the Longhorns (the University of Texas ones), the city is lauded for its live music scene and culinary delights.
Eat: Franklin Barbecue // De Nada
Stay: Heywood Hotel
Outdoor Adventure: Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center // Hamilton Poole Preserve
Fredericksburg, TX
Texas is home to 350 vineyards and wineries, and the best surround this quaint Hill Country town. Travel down US 290, a.k.a. “Wine Road” (there’s even a shuttle!) to hit hot spots like Becker Vineyards and Messina Hoff. The town has some serious German heritage, so make sure to hunt down authentic fare.
Eat & Drink: Tour the Wine Trail // Otto’s German Bistro
Stay: The Albert Hotel
Outdoor Adventure: Enchanted Rock // Old Tunnel State Park for bat viewing
New Braunfels & Gruene, TX
A quick 30-minute drive from San Antonio proper, New Braunfels and its nearby neighbor Gruene grant the quaint Texas town experience. Given its location, nestled in the convergence of the Comal and Guadalope rivers, tubing is the thing (or try an afternoon at Schlitterbahn waterpark), but don’t miss Gruene’s eponymous Dance Hall—it’s a true Texas musical experience.
Eat & Drink: Grazins BBQ // Naeglins Bakery
Stay: The Faust Hotel
Outdoor Adventure: Float the Comal River
