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Say Cheese

  • February 29, 2024
  • M. Linda Lee
Photography by Jen Jefferson.
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On Augusta Road, Mike Davitt slices up a good time at his new shop, The Cheese Wheel

Mike Davitt credits his affinity for cheese to a grilled cheese sandwich, though he admits it was “an unusual path.” While working in Manhattan in the financial industry, Davitt frequented the popular Murray’s Cheese Shop for lunch. “They have a massive selection of cheese,” he says. “You can pick whatever you want for a grilled cheese to make your own original version. I was going to Murray’s so often that I was always looking for new combinations.”

When Davitt and his mother moved to Greenville from Connecticut in early 2020, one of the first things he did was search out a dedicated cheese shop. In New England, it’s common to find a cheese shop either in your town or in one nearby, so he figured a city the size of Greenville must certainly have one.

To his dismay, his Google search turned up empty, and that got him thinking: he had always wanted to own a small business, so why not open his own shop? The only problem was that he wasn’t very knowledgeable about cheese.

To get up to speed, he contacted Paul Partica, owner of The Cheese Shop of Centerbrook in Connecticut, who has been a cheesemonger for over 50 years. During a series of trips north—a total of 10 weeks—Davitt studied with his mentor, learning the fine points of preserving and refrigerating cheese and the ins and outs of the business. Once he felt confident in his knowledge, Davitt and his mother opened The Cheese Wheel just before Thanksgiving last year.

Since then, it’s been a whirlwind. “The majority of our cheeses, most people have never tried or heard of, so the education element comes from sampling,” Davitt explains. And he can relate the history and background of all of his stock, which enriches the experience. The Cheese Wheel currently offers 150 different types of cheese—roughly 85% imported and 15% domestic. “There’s nothing I’ve brought in that is not selling,” he proudly reports.

This year, he plans to enhance his version of a Parisian-style fromagerie by raising the area outside the front of the store and adding bistro tables to complement the counter seating inside, where he will offer cheese flights and wine by the glass. Davitt also hopes to offer classes in making cheese boards, along with seminars featuring European cheese makers and sommeliers. It’s all in the name of sharing his love of cheese. “I want to have a place where customers can come hang out, and I want to make sure that every customer gets something they will enjoy.”

The Cheese Wheel, 1441 Augusta St., Greenville, 864.236.5230, cheesewheelgvl.com

Perfect Cheese Wheel Pairs

Mike Davitt suggests some cheese pairings to present at your next soiree. You’ll find all these cheeses and accompaniments in his store.

  • 6- to 12-month aged Ossau-Iraty, an unpasteurized sheep’s-milk cheese from the Pyrenees, with Georgia-made Doux South pickled onions
  • Drizzle 12-month aged Parmigiano Reggiano with a thick, aged (at least 5 years) balsamic vinegar from Modena, Italy
  • Produced in the La Mancha region of Spain from the milk of Manchega sheep, semi-soft Manchego goes well with Bonne Maman red pepper jam
  • For a true crowd-pleaser, serve creamy, buttery French Fromager d’Affinois drizzled with acacia honey (and if they’re in season, toss some fresh figs or blueberries atop the cheese for a satisfying dessert)

Cheesemonger’s Choice

Mike Davitt’s “favorite cheese of all time” is Rogue River Blue, from Rogue Creamery in southern Oregon. Aged for 9–11 months and wrapped in organic syrah grape leaves that have been soaked in pear spirits, Rogue River Blue was proclaimed the Grand Champion at the 2019/2020 World Cheese Awards in Bergamo, Italy—a first for an American-made cheese. “I can only get it once a year and only a maximum of six wheels,” the shop owner says. It arrives in late November and sells for $68 per pound.

 

  • M. Linda Lee
    M. Linda Lee
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