Opening the lost treatise on capsule closets reveals timeless wardrobe advice
Although a capsule closet may seem very 2020s, in 1988, fashion expert Susie Faux extolled its benefits in a nearly 150-page book. “You should never again have to face the dilemma of ‘what on earth shall I wear!’” she declares in her introduction to Wardrobe: Develop Your Style and Confidence. The appeal of investing in a streamlined wardrobe reverberates today as capsule-closet revivalists praise its ability to reduce decision fatigue, simplify living, and cut through the cloth of fast fashion. Many are invested in Faux’s belief that less is really more.
Often buried in the buzz, however, are Faux’s profound insights into the power and purpose of a capsule closet. “We make a whole set of value judgments, many of which are subconscious, when we look at people or things,” explains Faux, who taught capsule seminars to women at her fashionable London boutique. In an image-driven world where women still had to prove their worth in workplaces, Faux strove to bolster women’s careers and confidence through attentive dressing. Her text is replete with practical advice about dressing for the job you want (not the one you have), avoiding uncomfortable clothing, and selecting appropriate fabrics and silhouettes.
Today, the contents of a capsule remain mostly the same as in the ’80s—it includes about 10–20 complementary, high-quality garments that, when combined, offer a number of intuitive and easy outfit options. For Faux’s working woman, a capsule’s foundation begins with a suit or a matching skirt and jacket. From there, complementary garments, including pants, skirts, sweaters, blouses, dresses, and accessories, complete the potential for ample sharp and reliable looks. Simply put, the contents of a capsule create a mix-and-match dream. But for Faux, there was also a reality to keep in mind when curating a capsule closet.
Times have changed, many people work from home, and dress codes tend to be looser and more inclusive than they once were. Still, Faux’s insights serve as a stark reminder of the relationship between how one looks and feels—plus of one’s susceptibility to the perception of others. Clothing is its own language, so the question is: what do you want to communicate through a wardrobe? While Faux leans somewhat formulaic, she encourages individuality and the development of “the image that you want to present.” Whether that’s the image of a subversive creative or powerhouse professional—or any of the possibilities in between—is up to the creator.
Susie Faux’s Three Cs
The pioneer of the capsule closet saw cut, cloth, and color as integral to its success. Mind the three Cs to shop like a pro, and use your favorite garments to determine the Cs that suit your style.
Cut: The cut of a garment relates to its total amount of fabric, fabric pieces, and fit. The cut also determines a silhouette and shape, including whether a garment has soft lines, straight lines, and structure. For Faux, a formal or tailored cut means business, while a looser cut is leisurely.
Cloth: From warmth to smoothness, wrinkles, and movement, the fabric of a garment affects how a person feels and appears. Faux suggests shopping for silk and cashmere and avoiding synthetic materials like polyester or rayon. Mixing textured and smooth fabrics of the same color helps to blend slight variations between manufacturers.
Color: Besides suggesting neutral, subtle colors for the workplace, Faux uses color as a starting point to build a capsule closet. Begin with two favorite items, such as a brown skirt and a gray skirt, and complement them by purchasing a jacket with a black or brown pattern. Alternatively, use a jacket to inspire the purchase of a matching skirt or pants.
