Follow the tracks of a train journey, from Greenville to the land of dreams.
Every city has its signature, its can’t-quite-put-to-words feeling beckoning visitors to its gates. In New Orleans, it pulses from the asphalt and swirls through the air—a medley of art, vitality, warmth, and music beckoning travelers with song. Let’s fly down, or drive down, to New Orleans, begins “Bourbon Street Parade,” recorded by Louis Armstrong in 1960. That city, has pretty, historic scenes his successors sing today. Instead of flying or driving, we rode an Amtrak train.
The Amtrak’s Crescent Line runs from New York City to New Orleans, with a daily early morning stop at Greenville’s small brick station off Washington Street. From Greenville to Atlanta and Birmingham to Meridian and on, the train was sometimes smooth and sometimes jolting, sometimes slow and sometimes fast. After nearly 18 hours, we arrived at the Union Passenger Terminal, catching a 10-minute car ride to One11 Hotel in the historic French Quarter.
Part 1
Stepping into the Vieux Carre is like stepping into an architectural museum. From the stucco to the courtyard to the balconies and the paint, every building is historical or a precise replica dating from the late 18th century to the early 20th. Some buildings are bright and carefully maintained, with regal iron-lace balconies; others are faded, with old shutters and shingles decorating their facade.
On our first day, we strolled the River Walk to board Steamboat Natchez, a four-deck sternwheeler, for a two-hour jazz cruise up the Mississippi River. As the sun was beaming, we sought shade, had a bottle of water, and made our way to the top deck, where we listened to the Steamboat Stompers, the two-count, pah, pah / pah, pah of a tuba accompanied by a banjo and trumpet.
Part 2
Cottages, houses, hotels and galleries, restaurants, churches, and shops line the French Quarter streets. Every building is either historical or a precise replica, dating from the late 18th century to the early 20th. Some buildings are bright, carefully maintained, with regal iron-lace balconies; others are faded and worn, with old shutters decorating their facade.
Save for the train, an Uber ride, the boat, and a pedicab, we walked the French Quarter. The Quarter’s grid layout is easy to navigate, and its main drags—Decatur, Royal Street, and Bourbon Streets—run parallel to each other, connected by intersecting streets. It only takes a day or two for the layout to become intuitive, and roaming the district is part of the allure.
After lunch on the steamboat and winding down and around its decks, we followed the crowd off the boat, across Decatur, and down Toulouse. Washed by an air of familiarity, we swung left on Royal Street and roamed in and out of galleries and shops, listening to busking musicians and finding treasures around corners of lonely corridors.
Throughout the trip, the city buzzed with its usual activity, but there were quiet spaces, a welcome stillness the week after the end of carnival season. Popular places like Cafe Du Monde had empty seats, and many balconies were empty, lonely for guests.
Part 3
It doesn’t take long to be enchanted by the old neighborhood, with its grandeur encapsulated by the mark of time. Many buildings deceptively hold magic within their worn and weathered surfaces. Unwittingly walk by a venue like Preservation Hall, an 1817 faded creole cottage with a modest cast iron balcony, and it’d be impossible to identify the magic within.
The magic of the city is everywhere if you look close enough. It’s across from Rouse’s, a corner store on Royal Street, where a mirror reflects a piano player immersed in his playing. It’s in the plaza, where a writer taps at the keys of his worn typewriter as a trumpeter belts the “Star Spangled Banner.” And it’s in the corner of a dim restaurant, where a man quietly reads a book.
Part 4
We ended our first evening after an early dinner, needing rest after a long voyage and eventful first day. The next morning began in the French Market and turned to a midday meeting, followed by lunch at Napoleon House, where the staff wears crisp button-up shirts with bowties, and scribbled names cover patinated walls. The first room was buzzing with conversation and movement, and the second room was quiet, with only a few filled seats.
The food was delicious and the drinks refreshing and both arrived quickly—a nice surprise because we had to head back to the French Market for a tour. Not long after our food arrived—an avocado stuffed with shrimp remoulade and an alligator po’boy—a couple wandered to our table, giggling and asking to write their names on the wall in the enclave where we sat.
Part 5
Throughout the Quarter, tourists meander and cars drive by, horses pull carts, and dogs walk off leash beside their owners, each on their own journey through the city. On our last afternoon, we caught a pedicab back to One11 Hotel, our luxurious home base, for brief repose. Our driver was from Portland, and when we asked if he planned to settle in New Orleans, he whispered something about New Orleans not being here forever, and to love it while you can.
Time in New Orleans ends as quickly as it begins, and after a quick turnaround at the hotel, we set for Bourbon Street, known for its inviting neon signs, to-go drinks, and debauchery. On this early evening, only a few people filled a venue, where Justin Donovan plays five afternoons a week. We listened to him soulfully sing to his hybrid guitar-bass, until it was time to head to Preservation Hall, where legendary musicians carry the legacy of ancestral jazz and spirituals, sending you into a world removed from the everyday.
Part 6
Before we immersed ourselves in the dense district, we overlooked it on our first morning from the 34th floor of Vue, an observation deck and interactive exhibit with countless portals into the city’s history, culture, food, and music—not unlike the Quarter itself. Feeling overwhelmed, we asked an attendant how to prioritize our time, and when we thanked her for her advice, she kindly reassured us, “Time is on your side.”
From Bourbon Street to Preservation Hall and a quiet balcony dinner to Carousel Bar later that night, time was on our side. When the train ran late, but we made it in time to see an hour of New Orleans legend George Porter Jr. on our first night, time was on our side. And it was on our side that last night, when we listened to a band in the lounge of Hotel Monteleone on Royal Street, with the Carousel Bar spinning beside us and the Crescent City spinning outside.
Want to recreate our trip to the Crescent City? Here’s our itinerary, complete with information about the train, hotel, restaurants, and venues.
Train Ride to New Orleans Travel Log
DAY 1: Monday, 2/27/23
5:30am: Board the Amtrak train in Greenville. The Amtrak’s Crescent Line runs daily, and includes stops in Spartanburg and Clemson on its way to New Orleans.
Greenville Station, 1120 W. Washington St., Greenville, amtrak.com
10pm: Arrive at Union Passenger Terminal. The large station has a stunning historic mural depicted in the frescoes of its walls. We quickly caught an Uber from the station to the hotel.
1001 Loyola Ave., New Orleans
10:30pm: Check into One11 Hotel. The stunning new boutique hotel is conveniently located in the French Quarter. We were easily able to walk from the hotel to our destinations throughout the trip, and it was quietly tucked away from the bustling main drags.
111 Iberville St., New Orleans, one11hotel.com
11pm: George Porter Jr. Trio at Maple Leaf Bar. George Porter Jr. is known for his legendary role as the bass player and singer in the iconic New Orleans funk band, The Meters. He plays at Maple Leaf Bar most Monday nights, and seeing him with his band in this small, friendly venue was a remarkable experience.
8316, Oak St., New Orleans, mapleleafbar.com
DAY 2: Tuesday, 2/28/23
10am: Vue New Orleans. This interactive gallery features digital and interactive exhibits about the history, music, food, and culture of New Orleans. Don’t miss the observation deck on the top floor.
1600 Canal St., New Orleans, vueorleans.com
12pm: Steamboat Natchez. This riverboat cruise down the Mississippi River featured traditional jazz and a phenomenal Creole lunch, including fried fish, red beans and rice, and jambalaya.
Located in Woldenberg Park, 400 Touluse St., New Orleans, steamboatnatchez.com
2pm: Wander French Quarter. Meander the French Quarter to find shops, venues, restaurants, and galleries. If you find a place with music you like, stick to it and savor the moment.
3:30pm: Justin Donovan at Bourbon Street Drinkery. During the day and into the evening, the Bourbon Street Drinkery is a quiet venue. Justin Donovan sings soul, blues, and jazz as he plays a combination bass-guitar here five afternoons a week. It’s extraordinary.
217 Bourbon St., New Orleans, bourbonstreetdrinkery.business.site
7pm: Tujague’s Cajun Restaurant. This is one of the oldest restaurants in the French Quarter, having been founded in 1856. It featured a quiet, low-lit ambience paired with delectable Creole food.
429 Decatur St., New Orleans, tujaguesrestaurant.com
DAY 3: Wednesday, 3/1/23
9am: Cafe Du Monde. A cafe famous for its beignets and root coffee, this is one of those New Orleans traditions that shouldn’t be missed.
800 Decatur St., New Orleans. Shop.cafedumonde.com
10am: French Market. The French Market features vendors, food stalls, and busking musicians. There’s something for everyone, whether it’s a quick bite or souvenirs to bring home.
1008 N. Peters St., New Orleans, frenchmarket.org
12pm: Napoleon House. The food here was phenomenal and quick. The restaurant has been in operation since 1914, and there’s a reason it’s stood the test of time.
500 Chartres St., New Orleans, napoleonhouse.com
1pm: French Quarter Walking Tour with Two Chicks Walking Tour. A tour named Hopper led us through the French Quarter, teaching us about its architecture, history, and food. Everyone was friendly, and it was fascinating to gain insight into the district we had been roaming.
Locations vary, twochickswalkingtours.com
6:15pm: Preservation Hall. If there’s one thing to take away from this journey, it should be a ticket to Preservation Hall. The historic music venue is dedicated to the perpetuation of traditional New Orleans jazz. The intimate acoustic shows by legendary musicians will transport you into another world. Don’t miss it.
726 St. Peter, New Orleans, preservationhall.com
7:45pm: Tableau French Quarter. This elegant restaurant featured decadent French food. We dined on a quiet balcony overlooking St. Peter, down the street from Preservation Hall.
616 St. Peter, New Orleans, tableaufrenchquarter.com
9:30pm: James Bond Band at Carousel Bar & Lounge. Carousel Bar features a circular bar that not only revolves but looks like a carousel. Located in Hotel Monteleone, it’s an elegant, upscale bar that features a live band.
214 Royal St., New Orleans, hotelmonteleone.com
DAY 4: 3/2/23
9:00am: Board the Amtrak train. The Crescent Line departs daily from the land of dreams back to Clemson, Greenville, Spartanburg, and all the way up to New York City.
1001 Loyola Ave., New Orleans
