Autumn Beauty

The mountains in the fall are heaven on earth. I know this because my family has trekked to the Blue Ridge every autumn for decades. Perhaps it’s the first inhale of crisp mountain air, or the glorious sight of orange and gold tumbling down ridge after ridge. Call it nostalgia, call it magic—there’s a reason millions flock here when the leaves start changing.

That’s why my husband and I plan an overnight in the Montford area of Asheville in early fall—we want all the seasonal feels without the long apple-picking lines. Montford is a dreamy district just north of downtown. As soon as we turn onto its quiet streets, canopied by ancient trees and lined with charming old homes, I am captured—and only more so when we roll up to our bed and breakfast.

Applewood Manor, a brick Colonial Revival-style home (c.1912), possesses all the romance of an old house (the stairs have a pleasant creak), but with the approachable luxury of a boutique hotel. This is an intentional strategy from Stephen and Robin Collins, who bought the property in 2020. Beautiful antiques are complemented by eclectic modern pieces throughout the downstairs area and six guest rooms—an ode to Robin’s skill as an interior designer. She’s also an ingenious baker, a fact we discover when we bite into her homemade chocolate chip cookies.

 

Once we settle into the French wine-country-themed York Imperial Suite (all the rooms are named for apples), the Collins pass along a list of their favorite area eateries. We take their advice on Asheville Proper, a live-fire dining experience at the Grove Arcade, a 15-minute stroll from the B&B. Proper is barely a year old, but from its locally sourced dishes to décor and cocktails to customer service, quality and intentionality are paramount. While steaks are their specialty, sides like the crispy confit potatoes are not to be skipped, and we enjoy watching the flames flicker on the hardwood-fueled grill in-between bites.

While one could easily continue the evening at one of Asheville’s countless breweries, we head back, soaking in the crisp, cool air the entire way. A nightcap at Applewood will be a possibility in the near future (their beer and wine license is pending), but satiated, we sink into the Duxiana king mattress and are soon asleep.

“As a bed and breakfast, you sure have the beds and breakfast down,” a fellow guest tells Robin the next morning. I can only nod in agreement, as my mouth is blissfully full of her sourdough bread. In addition, our menu includes Due South coffee, an egg soufflé with leeks and potatoes, a fresh fig salad, and Hickory Nut Gap bacon—all organic or sourced from local farms.

We ease into the morning with a stroll through the neighborhood, enjoying the charming gardens and homes, several of which are winners of the Griffin Award from the Preservation Society of Asheville Buncombe. The multi-use trail known as the Reed Creek Greenway is accessible from Applewood, and while it’s tempting to walk its length to the Botanical Gardens at UNC-Asheville, we’re itching for our fall fix.

There are countless opportunities for autumnal adventure mere minutes away, and with time limits, it’s impossible to experience them all well. Do you hit the Blue Ridge Parkway for a leisurely drive? Maximize views and adventure with a hike up to Craggy Gardens? Perhaps you stroll around the Biltmore Estate, or brave the orchard crowds for an apple-cider doughnut.

I like plants. So, if, like for me, a meander through beds bursting with blooms or a short hike into the depths of the Blue Ridge woodland sounds like a dream, the mere $16 entrance fee to the North Carolina Arboretum is worth every penny—especially for their bonsai exhibition. I could drink in the majesty of the falling leaves, the goldenrod and the asters, for hours, but reluctantly, I’m pulled away for lunch.

Downtown Asheville is bursting with funky, eclectic spots, and it can be hard to nail down lunch. I’m pleased when we find ourselves in the recently restored S&W cafeteria, now a food hall called the S&W Market. The old building’s Art Deco elegance has been tastefully accentuated, and there’s plenty of seating. My husband opts for Buxton Chicken Palace, and I enjoy a bao from Thai concept Bun Intended, but there are plenty of other options, including Highland Brewing.

After a stroll around downtown and a stop at Malaprop’s Bookstore, we head back to the B&B and take full advantage of the porches, which are made for comfy socks, cups of coffee, and a good book. Our room (and the living room downstairs) has a fireplace, and it’s so cozy, we hesitate to begin packing our things.

Reluctantly, we say our goodbyes and head back to Greenville, with one last stop on the way home. After a year of closure, The Taproom at Sierra Nevada is open once again for reservations. Though the menu is smaller, the staples are still there, and my husband and I toast our adventure with a celebratory seasonal ale. As the evening darkens, we stroll through the restaurant’s garden. The leaves crunch beneath my feet, and there’s a brief chill in the air. I snuggle deeper into the cocoon of my jacket. This is the magic of fall.

Need a rain plan? If your outdoor plans are compromised, head to the Biltmore Estate for Van Gogh Alive—an immersive sensory experience illuminating the Impressionist painter’s exceptional works.