Horse Around

In its early days, Aiken attracted some of America’s scions of industry with its mild winters. Families with names such as Whitney, Vanderbilt, and Astor created a “Winter Colony” here, fueled by William Aiken’s rail line that chugged into the area in 1833. Many of those wealthy families brought their horses with them, and Gilded Age trappings like private clubs, equestrian sports, and golf courses became de rigueur in the “Newport of the South.”

The horsey set soon discovered that Aiken’s soft, loamy soil was perfect for training Thoroughbreds, spurring the industry that characterizes the town today. It’s not unusual to see folks walking around town in riding boots, and nearly every downtown shop I visit offers equine-themed items. Curiosity leads me down a winding residential street in a nearby neighborhood, where each historic estate has its own horse barns, if not a paddock or two. Walls, hedges, and iron gates cordon off the massive “cottages,” as the winter homes are called, erected by Aiken’s early residents.

As I step inside the legendary Willcox Hotel, with its clubby wood-paneled lobby and twin fireplaces, I sense it’s going to be a special stay. It’s easy to picture turn-of-the-nineteenth-century luminaries sipping whiskey at the small bar. Winston Churchill once checked in, and Franklin D. Roosevelt is rumored to have secretly entered the back of the hotel from his private rail car to meet his mistress.

The hotel’s longtime manager offers me Champagne and tells me I’ll be staying in the Chef’s Cottage, a newly renovated accommodation housing five rooms and a chef’s kitchen, fronted by a gated garden. Historic rooms in the hotel itself are equally gracious, and the entire property is dog-friendly.

The next day, I set out to explore Hitchcock Woods, the largest privately-owned urban forest in the United States, established as a hunting ground by the wealthy elite in the 1890s. This is where pampered Aiken horses and riders pass their time, but hikers and birders also take advantage of the 70 miles of sandy trails crisscrossing these tranquil 2,100 acres, which are punctuated by whimsically named areas like Whisper and Ruby’s Place, Jack Rabbit Field, and Mrs. Ewings’ Ride.

Aiken’s equestrian story unfolds at the Thoroughbred Racing Hall of Fame. I’ve luckily come when Denny Duerksen, president of the board of directors of the Aiken Symphony Orchestra, is here. A font of Aiken information, Denny educates me about the city’s equestrian scene. Each November, he tells me, a new crop of young Thoroughbreds—some of whom go on to compete in Triple Crown races—begin their careers at the Aiken Training Track. Aiken’s temperate climate has drawn these young contenders since 1941, but the track’s quiet location is also key. Like children, two- and three-year-old horses have limited attention spans and are easily spooked in noisy environments.

I take Denny’s advice and visit the historic Horse District, its streets unpaved to accommodate hooves. South Boundary Street’s tunnel-like oaks give way to one large, low-slung horse barn after another, each more elegant than the last. When I arrive at the Training Track, there is but one lone horse exercising. I lean on the rail with a cup of coffee in the quiet morning, taking note of the live oak in the middle of the track. Called Blue Peter’s Tree, it shades the beloved Thoroughbred champion buried beneath it.

My evening is spent at the welcoming Willcox lobby bar, aka “Aiken’s living room,” where the gentleman next to me has played polo internationally and is talking about his friend Tito, who has a vodka company. I sip my zinfandel and imagine the fascinating conversations that have taken place within these walls over the decades.

In the morning, nearby La Parisienne beckons, owned by yet another polo player, this one French. The walls of his authentic bakery/bistro are lined with black-and-white photos from Saratoga, Sarasota and other famous horse tracks. I savor my pastry and reluctantly say “au revoir” to this lovely city.

Welcoming guests since 1900, The Willcox still reigns as Aiken’s most luxurious retreat. Snag a seat at the lobby bar for prime people-watching. 100 Colleton Ave, Aiken. (803) 648-1898, thewillcox.com

EAT

Malia’s

Seek out Chef Malia Koelker’s restaurant for impeccably sourced food, perfect acoustics for conversation, and the lovely outdoor courtyard. 120 Laurens St, Aiken. (803) 643-3086, maliasrestaurant.com

The Whitney Restaurant and Bar

Dark and sexy, The Whitney offers elevated appetizers and a staff who knows their wine. 148 Laurens St SW, Aiken. (803) 226-0911, thewhitneyaiken.com

PLAY

Aiken Thoroughbred Racing Hall of Fame and Museum

Discover Aiken horseracing history, and leave time to explore adjacent Hopelands Gardens. 135 Dupree Pl, Aiken. (803) 642-7631, aikenracinghalloffame.com

Aiken Training Track

Go on mornings in early March to watch Thoroughbreds train for the Aiken Triple Crown. 538 Two Notch Rd, Aiken. (803) 648-4631, aikentrainingtrack.com

SHOP

York Cottage Antiques

This beautifully curated collection has a charming owner and its own shop dog. 409 Hayne Ave SW, Aiken. (803) 642-9524, facebook.com/aikenantiques

Plum Pudding Gourmet Kitchen Store

Find everything you need for the kitchen, including dinnerware by Juliska, Vietri, and Mariposa. 101 Laurens St NW, Aiken. (803) 644-4600, plumpuddingkitchen.com